How to Tenderize and Heighten the Flavor of Your Game Meat

November 7, 2008

An interesting anecdote from McGee:

Back in the late 18th century and early 19th century, the time of Brillat-Savarin (who sounds like an interesting guy), people would hang their game meat for days or weeks, until it began to rot.  This both tenderized it and increased its gamy flavor.  This was known as mortification or faisandage.

From Escoffier (via Oregon State):

In Brillat-Savarin’s time, pheasant was not considered fit for the gastronome’s table, except in a state of complete putrefaction. This authority recommends, in effect, that it should be kept, unplucked, until its breast turns green, so that it has to be held together for roasting on the spit by a slice of bread tied on with ribbon.

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