Cooking 101: Three More Stock Techniques

December 21, 2008

This post is part of a series called Cooking 101, which introduces the basics of cooking. The series follows the book Culinary Fundamentals, with supplements from The Professional Chef by the Culinary Institute of America. Check out the previous posts here.

Unit 14: Stocks

Part 3: Three More Stock Techniques

As I write this, my second batch of chicken stock is simmering on the stove and I have four pounds of veal bones in the freezer for later.  I don’t know why, but making stock is fun for me.  Here are three more techniques to alter your stock flavors.

Blanching

Blanching your bones creates a ‘white’ stock. It prevents any browning and gives the stock a lighter color.  I’ve read conflicting reports on whether it neutralizes any flavor. Culinary Fundamentals claims that the stock takes on a more neutral flavor.  Yet someone pointed out on a website that Tom Colicchio (in his book) suggests blanching to remove impurities, and that you do not lose any substantial flavor.  I tried blanching for the stock I am working on right now, so I’ll update this when it’s finished and give my opinion.  Has anyone else used this technique?  Thoughts?

To blanch your bones, begin like normal by rinsing them under cold water, adding them to the stockpot, and filling it to a couple inches higher than the bones with cold water.  Bring the water to a boil, then pour off the liquid and rinse the bones again.  You can then refill your pot and follow a normal stock recipe.

Browning

This technique, unsurprisingly, creates a ‘brown’ stock.  You brown your bones and vegetables before making the stock, and this creates a darker color and richer flavor.  The general procedure calls for a preheating a roasting pan with a few tablespoons of oil, adding your bones, and roasting them until browned on all sides (turning occasionally).  You then add the bones to the stockpot, deglaze the pan with some water, and pour that liquid into the pot as well.  Normal stock procedure is subsequently followed.

For the mirepoix, you heat a large pan over medium-high heat and sauté the onions, carrots and celery until the onions are golden brown (around 15 minutes).  Then you actually add a can of tomato paste and cook it for another couple minutes, or until it is a “rusty brown color and gives off a sweet aroma.”  The mirepoix is added as normal at the time the recipe calls for it.

Smothering

This technique is used primarily for fish and vegetable stocks, which have shorter cooking times and lighter flavors.  To try this, preheat your stockpot over medium heat with a couple tablespoons of oil, stir in the bones and vegetables, and cover.  Let them cook until the release some juices.  The goal is to enhance the flavor of the stock by pre-releasing the juices in the vegetables and bones.  My vegetable soup recipe actually called for smothering the aromatic vegetables before adding the liquid (though I didn’t know this was called smothering at the time).

Posted in Cooking 101, Techniques |